Oily skin care
Oily skin is caused by over-active glands, which produce a substance called Asebum, a naturally healthy skin lubricant. When the skin produces too much sebum, it becomes thick and heavy in texture. Oily skin is characterized by shininess, pimples and blemishes. This skin type is not necessarily bad since it is less prone to wrinkling and other signs of aging than other skin types. This is the result of the oil helping to keep precious moisture locked in the epidermis, or outermost
layer of the skin. The negative aspects of this skin type is that oily complexions are especially susceptible to clogged pores, blackheads, and buildup of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Oily skin can be sallow and roughing texture and tend to have large, clearly visible pores everywhere except around the eyes and neck.
The successful treatment of oily skin requires patience, since excessive oil production is a symptom of an internal problem. Therefore, a holistic approach is necessary. Results may be slow, and in extreme cases the client should be referred to a health professional. Although oiliness may not be completely eliminated, the condition can be improved and acne lesions avoided. This goal, together with making the skin look more attractive, should be the esthetician's objective.
The essential requirement of treating oily skin is to remove excess surface sebum without total removal of the skin lipids. Severe degreasing treatment can lead to an apparent worsening of sebum secretion, which defeats the aim of the cleansing. A method of cleansing this type of skin is to wash with a solution of a very mild synthetic detergent (surfactant, see below) containing no oils, waxes or any other lipid agent that could aggravate the oily condition of the skin, sometimes combined with a toning lotion. This kind of product eliminates the oily residue and debris from the skin surface. Some cleansing products contain low concentrations of hydroxy acids, which remove dead cells from the upper levels of the stratum corneum. They must be used on a regular basis to work adequately. A light moisturizer may be included in the product to counteract any drying effects of the cleanser.
An alternative form now available for facial cleansing is a lathering cloth. This is a growing segment of the cleansing market. Some of the clothes are designed to meet the specific needs of different skin types by delivering multiple skin benefits in addition to excellent cleansing. Due to the form itself, the cloth can contain a low level of surfactants making them mild to skin. These products are still able to generate a generous lather via the cloth structure, which incorporates air as the lather is generated. Being mild while also depositing conditioning agents directly onto the skin helps to improve the skin's overall condition beyond basic cleansing. Lastly, the different cloth textures allow for individualized, but gentle, exfoliation that removes skin flakes for a more even skin surface. These combination of benefits can eliminate the need of other specialty cleansing products, such as toners, make-up removers and exfoliators.
Use an astringent daily to remove excess oils. Don't use an alcohol-based products -- if you strip too much oil from your face, the skin will overcompensate and produce even more oil. Cleanse at least twice a day with a mild cleanser to help prevent clogged pores . But don't scrub hard or overwash your face. Moisturizing is not necessary on a daily basis. However, if your face feels tight after washing, then apply a light, oil-free moisturizer . Avoid mineral oils and cocoa butter. When choosing makeup, especially foundation and blush, buy oil-free products. Makeup that is water based and non-comedogenic won't clog pores. (There are also oil-absorbing foundations that help keep oil off the face.) Use a sunscreen that is not oil based, preferably a gel, as it's less greasy. Be sure to use a minimum SPF of 15. If you have breakouts, use a cleanser with salicylic acid to help exfoliate pores. There are also moisturizers that contain salicylic acid.
Appropriate diets will help treat oil skin. Avoid refined starches, sugar, animal and dairy fats, fried and processed foods. Eat a low-fat diet emphasizing fresh fruit, vegetables, and complex carbohydrates. Drink 6-8 glasses of water (or herb teas) a day. Eliminate stimulants. Try to have regular, daily bowel movements. Make sure your vitamin/mineral intake is adequate. Vitamin A, B-6 and lecithin can be helpful.